Musings on the beauty of the road trip; by plane, car, boat, bike, foot…

New Orleans: A Spring Fling Revisited

So in catching up on this season’s episodes of Treme, and especially the Saints episode, I was inspired to write this blog entry, which I have woefully neglected to do since visiting New Orleans this past spring. I think my reluctance to write about this amazing city stems from the fact that I was unconvinced (and am still dubious) of whether I could do justice in my description of the Big Easy. However, my desire to share has overwhelmed my fear of writing inadequacy.

After talking about it for a couple of years, we finally made the trek to New Orleans, Louisianna during the Easter long weekend. Having spent much time in some great American cities, it only seemed natural to visit this iconic location for two of my favourite things: jazz and food. Visit any great US destination (Boston, New York, Chicago, Portland, Vermont) and you’ll find a running theme: a love of local food, drink and entertainment, and a people who love their place. Well, New Orleans is no different in any of these aspects, but where it does stand out can only be explained as a vibe. As cliché as that may sound I have no idea how else to describe the vibrating pulse which permeates the whole place; every experience felt like it was accompanied by some soundtrack that no one could really hear, but everyone seemed to be feeling.

Let’s start with the food because you can’t go to New Orleans without being seduced by the Creole and Southern inspired fair. This is not a place for the calorie-conscious, but it is a must for anyone who fancies themselves a gastronome.  New Orleans is no stranger to great restaurants, and there is no shortage of renowned restaruants and chefs (8 of who were prestigious James Beard nominees this year alone), but a shortage of time and desire to visit the “classic spots” led us to couple of iconic spots including Commander’s Palace. Nestled in the beautifula Garden District since 1880, this histroic restaurant is well worth the streetcar ride, and the best way, I think, to experience it is through the tasting menu, or as they like to call it, the Chef’s Playground. Fantastic!

I’ve always felt the most at home in strange cities when I run or bike around local neighbourhoods.  This time in New Orleans we did one more: we signed up for the Crescent City Classic 10KM . It wasn’t my first 10km race, but I was wholly unprepared for this kind or run, or shall I say, party.  I was so happy to be part of a race run by over 21,000 runners and walkers alike;  I stood amoung seasoned athletes, moms with strollers, participants dressed in costumes, and college partiers who had stumbld to the start line with Bourbon Street drinks still in hand from the previous evening. My surprise (and delight) came from the same vibe I spoke of earlier.  This race was my worst 10km time ever, but the most fun I’ve ever had running.  Live bands lined the route enticing participants to dance (which I did – with the Easter Bunny), as well as enjoy an early morning cocktail or beer (which I did),  and everyone crossed a finish line into a field of New Orleans post-running celebration which included more beer, gumbo and live music!

British Rockers (with jello shots in hand)

Post-race celebrations.

As grand as these experiences were, nothing quite compared to the music – jazz! It was everywhere, and I was loving it. I embraced every stree-corner musical delay to our daily plans and spent as much time as I could listening to the music, but my most memorable moment came one evening when we stumbled into The Spotted Cat. It was crowed and smokey and filled with the jazz sounds of Meschiya Lake and the Little Big Horns, in other words, it was everything I imagined the New Orleans jazz experience to be.

Spotted Cat Music Club

This night was everything I wanted New Orleans to be, and again, I was loving it. I didn’t think this exeperience could be any better, but then a guy jumped up on stage to sing with Meschiya Lake; he looked familiar – “hey, that looks like the guy from Treme” I said; “It is!” said the girl behind me, and indeed it was Michiel Huisman. This was pretty cool; I was star-struck in a weird kind of way and it was an amazing way to end an unbelievable weekend.

Meschiya Lake and the Little Big Horns with Treme’s Michiel Huisman

Since that trip, which now seems so long ago, we have been talking about going back, interpreting all things that come up New Orleans as a sign that we need to return and I think the final omen came while watching that Saints episode of Treme when Michiel Huisman’s character Sonny takes his new girl out on a date to the Spotted Cat Music Club to watch Meschiya Lake and the Little Big Horns. For just a brief second I willed the camera to pan to the right because I felt like I was there again.


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